How to Combine Spa and Countryside: A 3-Day Itinerary in Viterbo
- Anna Grani
- 2 days ago
- 5 min read

There's a way of travelling that doesn't ask you to choose between wellness and nature, between history and good food. It's the way of the Tuscia around Viterbo: a land where thermal waters flow hot just steps from medieval villages, and the countryside smells of lavender and freshly pressed olive oil.
If you have three days ahead of you, Viterbo is the perfect base to bring all of this together. We've put together a 3-day itinerary designed to alternate the relaxation of the thermal baths with the slow rhythm of the countryside, with a few gems of the Tuscia along the way. It's a trip to enjoy without rushing, setting out and returning each evening to a single place: the Viterbo countryside.
The itinerary at a glance
Day 1 — Arrival, Terme dei Papi and medieval Viterbo
Day 2 — The countryside: lavender, olive oil, horses and Renaissance gardens
Day 3 — The villages of the Tuscia: Civita di Bagnoregio and Lake Bolsena
Day 1 — Terme dei Papi and papal Viterbo
The first day is all about switching body and mind into holiday mode.
After check-in and a moment out in the countryside, treat yourself to an afternoon at the Terme dei Papi, the historic spa of the Tuscia, just a few minutes away. The heart of the resort is its monumental pool: over 2,000 square metres fed by the Bullicame spring, which surfaces at 58°C and stays warm in the pool all year round. This sulphurous water has been renowned since the 15th century, when Pope Nicholas V chose it for his treatments.
Towards evening, head into the historic centre of Viterbo. Stroll through the San Pellegrino district, one of the best-preserved medieval quarters in Italy, among alleys of peperino stone, arches and profferli (the typical external stone staircases). Reach the Palazzo dei Papi with its famous Loggia of Blessings, and end the day with dinner in a trattoria in the old town, savouring the flavours of Viterbo cuisine.
Tip: if you arrive on a Saturday, don't miss the night bathing at the Terme dei Papi, with the pool lit up and steam rising under the stars.
Day 2 — The countryside: lavender, olive oil and horses
The second day is the heart of this itinerary: the Viterbo countryside, to be enjoyed slowly.
Start with breakfast overlooking the fields. In the morning, give yourself over to the experiences only the land can offer: a tasting of Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil, emerald green and fruity, straight from the farm; a walk among the olive trees and, in season (June–July), through rows of blooming organic lavender. For animal lovers, a lesson or a ride at the Horse Club is the most authentic way to discover these landscapes.
In the afternoon, choose one of the Renaissance wonders just minutes away:
Villa Lante in Bagnaia — one of the most celebrated Mannerist gardens of the 16th century, with fountains, water features and perfect geometries (a hamlet of Viterbo, about 10 minutes away).
Park of the Monsters in Bomarzo — the "Sacred Grove" with its enigmatic stone sculptures, a place unlike anywhere else in the world (about 20 minutes away, paid entry).
Head back for a dip in the pool and sunset drinks overlooking the meadows. If you'd like to bring home a flavourful memory, a cooking class reveals the secrets of local tradition.
Day 3 — The villages of the Tuscia and Lake Bolsena
The last day opens out towards the upper Tuscia, among villages suspended in mid-air and lake waters.
Set off early for Civita di Bagnoregio, "the dying town": an Etruscan village perched on a spur of tufa rock in the striking Valle dei Calanchi, reachable only on foot via a long panoramic footbridge. It's about 30 minutes from Viterbo; entry is ticketed (from €5, varying by day and season), with the proceeds going to preserve the village. Arrive early to enjoy it before the crowds.
For lunch, stop in Montefiascone, overlooking the lake and home to the wine with the legendary name Est! Est!! Est!!!. In the afternoon, treat yourself to Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe: a walk along the lakefront is the perfect way to slow down before heading home.
"Extra relaxation" alternative: instead of the lake, end the trip the way you began it — with the thermal baths. Just outside Viterbo you'll find the free Bagnaccio hot springs, small natural pools open to all at no charge, for one last warm soak in the open air.
Why Viterbo is the ideal base
The secret of this itinerary is its location. Staying in the Viterbo countryside puts the Terme dei Papi right on your doorstep, the historic centre just minutes away, and the villages of the Tuscia all within half an hour. You don't have to change accommodation or repack your bags: every evening you return to the same peaceful retreat, among olive trees and lavender.
That's exactly the spirit of Podere dell'Arco: a 15th-century farmhouse transformed into a charming residence, with independent apartments, a swimming pool, produce from the working farm, and the warm hospitality of the authentic Tuscia. Just 3 km from the Terme dei Papi, it's the perfect starting point to combine wellness and countryside.
Frequently asked questions
Are 3 days enough to visit Viterbo and the Tuscia?
Yes. Three days let you combine the thermal baths, the historic centre and at least a couple of villages. For a deeper exploration (Tarquinia, Tuscania, Caprarola), you can add a fourth day.
What's the best time of year for this itinerary?
Spring and early autumn offer ideal weather and fewer crowds. If you want to see the lavender in bloom, aim for June–July. The thermal baths, on the other hand, are wonderful all year round, even in winter.
Do I need a car?
Yes, it's strongly recommended. The thermal baths and Viterbo's centre are convenient, but the villages of the Tuscia (Civita, Bolsena, Bomarzo) are best reached by car.
Can this itinerary be done with children?
Absolutely. The pool at the Terme dei Papi suits all ages, the Park of the Monsters in Bomarzo delights little ones, and the countryside with its horses is a perfect family experience.
Where's the best place to stay?
In the countryside, near Viterbo: you'll be central to the thermal baths, the city and the villages. Podere dell'Arco, 3 km from the Terme dei Papi, combines convenience and relaxation.
Experience the Tuscia at your own pace. Stay at Podere dell'Arco, 3 km from the Terme dei Papi, among olive groves, lavender and the quiet of the Viterbo countryside. The perfect base for your 3-day itinerary between thermal baths and nature.

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